How to Paint a Room for Beginners – A Complete Guide to a Professional Finish
This tutorial for how to paint a room for beginners will teach you how to get a professional finish and save hundreds of dollars by doing the job yourself.
How to Paint a Room for Beginners
Painting a room is one of the easiest and least expensive ways to give it a brand new look. And it’s a job that you can easily do yourself with the right tools and advice.
My first painting project was more than 30 years ago and I’ve done dozens more since then. And for most of those 30 years I worked in our family paint and decorating store and learned what the pros use and how they make their paint jobs look so nice.
Today I’m sharing all that I know from my own experience plus what I learned from the professional paint contractors that I talked to every day for decades.
Should I paint my rooms or hire a painter?
That’s a great question and hopefully this tutorial will help you decide. If you don’t have any mobility issues and have the time, you can save several hundred dollars by doing the job yourself. Just make sure you allow enough time for the project and invest in some quality tools and paint.
How long does it take to paint a room?
Depending on how much prep work and how many coats you need, the time needed to complete this project can vary. It might take 2-3 hours if you’re simply repainting a similar color.
Or if you need to do a lot of patching and caulking and apply multiple coats of paint, it could take 2 to 3 days to allow time for everything to dry properly.
Which color should I use?
Sometimes the hardest part of painting a room is actually choosing the color! You can read dozens of articles featuring paint colors shown in real rooms in my Favorite Paint Color posts if you need some inspiration.
And here are my best tips: How to Choose a Paint Color.
See all the best ways to test a paint color here: Peel and Stick Paint Samples Plus Alternatives
What paint sheen is best for my walls?
You can read my entire post about all the different paint sheens for pros and cons of each including a printable guide here: The Ultimate Paint Sheen Guide
How much paint do I need for my room?
Once you’ve decided on your color and sheen then you’ll need to know how much paint to buy. Most average size rooms will require 1 or 2 gallons, depending on how textured your walls are and the quality of your paint. Check with the manufacturer for exact coverage for the paint you choose to go with.
Remember, better paint costs more per gallon but it goes much further and covers better, ultimately saving you time and money.
Where do I start when painting a room?
If you’re painting the entire room top to bottom you’ll want to do it in this order:
- Ceiling – since you wouldn’t want to take a chance of getting any splatters from ceiling paint on your freshly painted walls, start with the ceiling.
- Walls – there are differing opinions on this, but I prefer to paint the walls before the baseboards and trim to prevent any potential drips or splatters on them.
- Trim – finish with the trim for a beautiful and professional looking paint job.
Tools & supplies you’ll need
Make sure you have all the necessary supplies before you get started. You don’t want to realize that you need something when you’re in the middle of the job.
Paint like a pro
See what the pros use for a beautiful paint finish in my Painter’s Toolbox Collection.
How to prep the room and walls for paint for beginners
The prep work is as important as the painting if you want a really professional looking paint job. But this part is relatively easy, even for beginners.
It might take a couple of hours or more depending on how much patching, caulking, or cleaning you have to do.
1. Clear the room
Remove everything that you can from the room so you have plenty of space to work. This will also prevent paint from getting on anything that you don’t want it on.
To protect your floors you’ll probably want to use a drop cloth. A canvas drop cloth will last forever and will cover your entire floor in most rooms. You’ll also want to cover any furniture that hasn’t been removed from the room.
2. Remove outlet and light switch covers
Using a cordless screwdriver or regular one, remove all of the outlet and light switch covers. Keep the screws with them so they don’t get lost.
DESIGNER TIP: Write the brand name, color name, and date on a piece of tape and attach it to the back of one of your light switch covers. That way if you forget what color you used you’ll have a record of it.
3. Remove any window treatments
Remove any blinds or curtains in the room before you get started.
TIP: While they’re down it’s a good time to fluff any draperies in the dryer to remove dust or clean any blinds.
4. Clean the walls if necessary
Fresh paint won’t stick to dirty walls. So if your walls are dirty or it’s been a long time since they were painted, you’ll want to clean them first. You need to be sure that your cleaner doesn’t leave behind any residue that your paint won’t stick to.
This product is specifically designed to clean walls before painting them: Pre Paint Wall Cleaner
5. Patch nail holes and cracks in the wall
If there are any nail holes or cracks in the wall, use a putty knife to fill them in with spackling compound. After it dries, sand it smooth with a sanding sponge or sandpaper. Remove any dust with a damp cloth.
PRO TIP: Pros love this spackling compound that goes on pink and dries white so you know when it’s ready to be sanded: Best Spackling Compound
6. Caulk any gaps
For a professional looking job be sure to caulk any gaps showing between the wall and baseboards or trim. Make sure the caulk is labeled as “paintable”. This means that once it’s dry it can be painted and it won’t be seen once you’re done.
The best paintable caulk I’ve ever used is this one that doesn’t shrink: Best Caulk
7. Apply painters’ tape
Tape off any trim, baseboards, or crown molding that you aren’t painting.
I use and recommend this one for best results: Best Painters’ Tape
How to apply paint like a pro
1. Prime the walls if needed
Priming first is recommended when you’re painting new walls, changing the color drastically, or painting walls that are in bad shape.
For most cases an all purpose 100% acrylic primer will work, but check with your local paint shop to make sure. I’ve used this one many times and love it: Fresh Start Primer
PRO TIP: Having the primer tinted a couple of shades lighter than your paint color will make it easier to cover with your finish paint especially if it’s a dark color. You don’t want it to be the exact color of your finish paint because it will be difficult to see where you’ve painted over it.
2. Cut in around doors, windows, light switches, next to ceiling and baseboards
Using an angle sash brush, apply paint in the corners, next to the doors, windows, and any area that can’t be reached with your paint roller. This is my favorite brush for cutting in: Angle Sash Brush
PRO TIP: For any finish other than flat, you’ll get the best looking job if you roll the paint onto each wall after cutting it in and cover as much of the brush marks as possible while they’re still wet. Cut in one wall with a brush, roll the paint on that wall, then move on to the next wall.
3. Roll paint on walls
Roll the paint on each wall after cutting in the edges of that wall. (see above for an explanation). Make sure your roller is loaded with paint but not so full that it will run or splatter. Offload the excess in your roller pant.
For the best coverage apply the paint in a “w” form, rolling up and down at an angle.
PRO TIP: Using an extension pole will help ease the strain on your back and arms. This is the one I use when I’m painting walls: Best Extension Pole
Which roller cover should I use on my walls?
The smoother your walls, the shorter nap roller cover you should use. Here’s a quick guide:
- Smooth drywall or plaster walls – 3/8″ nap roller cover. This one will give you the nicest finish and make your job look professional: Best Roller cover for smooth walls
- Textured walls – depending on how heavy the texture is you should use 1/2″ to 3/4″ roller covers.
- Brick – usually a 1/2″ roller cover works best
- Block – a 3/4″ roller cover will work best for block
4. Apply second coat
99% of the time a second coat is needed after the first coat is dry to make your paint job look best.
The good news is that the second coat goes on much quicker than the first and usually doesn’t take as much paint! Take the extra time to make sure it’s done right.
5. Put everything back in place and pat yourself on the back
You’re done! Sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor and be thrilled with the hundreds of dollars you just saved by doing the job yourself!
NOTE – It’s always a bit of a shock to see a freshly painted room and you might question your color choice, but don’t rush to judgement. Your color will probably look just the way you envisioned it after you put all of your furniture back in place.
How do I touch up paint on my walls?
Things happen and touch-ups are going to be needed at a certain point. Sometimes even with the best efforts touch-ups will be noticeable. But there are a few tricks of the trade that will help.
- Whenever possible, use paint from the same can that was originally used to paint the wall.
- If the wall was painted with a roller, use this paint touch-up roller kit or something similar to get the same texture.
- Using your touch up roller, apply paint on the area that needs repainting from the center of the area and roll outward. Your roller will have less paint on it as it moves outward and will blend best with the existing paint. This is an age-old touch up method called “paint feathering” (not to be confused with feather painting!) and works beautifully.
How to Paint a Room For Beginners - A Complete Guide to a Professional Finish
Learn how to paint a room and save hundreds of dollars. It only takes a few of the right tools and doesn't take that much time. A little prep work and the right products make all the difference so keep reading to see how the pros do it.
Materials
- Paint
- Spackling Compound
- Sandpaper
- Caulk
- Drop cloth
- Painter's Tape
Tools
- Paint Brush
- Paint Roller Frame
- Roller Tray
- Roller Cover
- Extension Pole
- Caulk Gun
- Angle Sash Brush
- Extension Ladder
Instructions
- Clear all the furniture, rugs, window treatments, and wall hangings from the room.
- Place drop cloths on the floor and over any items that remain in the room.
- Using a cordless screwdriver, remove all lightswitch and outlet covers.
- Clean the walls with a solution of TSP and water.
- Patch any cracks or nail holes with spackling compound. Allow to dry completely.
- After the spackling dries, sand smooth with sandpaper or a sanding sponge.
- Fill any gaps between trim and walls with paintable caulk. Remove excess with your fingertips before it dries.
- After any caulking is dry, tape off trim with painter's tape.
- If the walls are new or if you're changing the color, you'll need to prime the walls. Have the primer tinted at the paint store to two shades lighter than your paint color.
- Begin by applying primer or paint in the corners and around the trim with an angle sash brush. (This is called "cutting in"). For best results, cut in one wall at a time and then roll over that wet edge so you won't have brush marks.
- Attach your roller cover to the roller frame.
- Attach the frame to an extension pole. Many people don't do this but it really does make the job easier and reduces stress on your back an arms.
- Pour paint into your roller tray.
- Roll the cover into the paint and roll off any excess on the grooves of the roller tray.
- Roll the paint on the wall in large "w" strokes, overlapping as you go.
- Reapply paint to the roller as needed.
- Repeat steps 10 - 16 until the room is completely painted.
- Apply a second coat if needed, beginning with cutting in and then rolling the paint on each wall.
- Remove painter's tape while before the paint is completely dry. If you notice it pulling any paint off the wall, us a sharp blade and cut a line at the edge of the tape to prevent this.
- If the trim needs painting, now is the time to do that.
- Reinstall light switch and outlet covers, window treatments. Rehang wall art. Bring furniture back into the room and give yourself a pat on the back!!
Notes
If you're painting the entire room including walls, trim, and ceiling, start with the ceiling, then paint the walls, and paint the trim last.
More painting tutorials
Here are more DIY painting tutorials you might like:
- How to paint paneling like a pro
- How to paint your brick fireplace and instantly update your home
- How to paint linoleum or vinyl floors
- How to paint your laminate counters
- How to crackle paint
- How to paint numbers and letters on furniture
- How to paint an 80’s oak table
- How to paint a glass vase to look like stoneware
Paint colors in our home
Looking for the paint colors I’ve used in my own home? Take a quick tour and see them all here:
I’m Angie!
Are you wondering how I know so much about paint? (I’m sure it’s keeping you awake at night😄) Here’s the scoop. Paint is in my DNA. My parents owned a paint and decorating shop in east Tennessee for 40+ years, and my husband and I also owned an independent paint and decorating store in Nashville for 13 years. I’ve spent 30+ years answering every imaginable question related to painting, wallpapering, and choosing colors. Thousands, literally.
They say to write about what you know, so you’ll find my best tips here on my blog. If you have a question, send me an email at [email protected] and I’ll either answer you directly or possibly write a new post!
See all of my paint related posts here: Favorite Paint Colors & More
Great info, Angie!
Thanks so much, Jane!!